Exploring the mystery of Lao national park

This article continues the adventures of a group of 24 intrepid explorers, including media personnel, as they climb a mountain to reach the heart of the Nakai-Nam Theun National Park to see a stand of very rare Chinese swamp cypress trees.
Before the hike began, we had to take a long-tail boat to get to Had Sakoy (sandy beach). We left the village of Nahao at noon, but passage through the Xot River which is an important watershed for the Nam Theun 2 reservoir, was difficult due to the low water level. The level of water in the reservoir is also lower than usual, which may be attributed to climate change.

The media team carries the boat through the shallow sections.

Each boat could carry only three people. I joined the Deputy Governor of Nakai district, Mr Sengkeo Phakhounmeuang, and a tourism official, Mr Seng, in one of the small craft. Only 10 minutes into the journey the boat got stuck in the sandy shallow river. We all had to climb out, including the deputy governor, and push the boat through the shallow sections. Everyone was tired but found the unusual experience fun and rewarding. We got stuck several times before reaching Had Sakoy.
The boatman told us it usually takes only 20 minutes to travel between Nahao and Had Sakoy, but on this occasion it took us 30-40 minutes.
As we approached thick jungle, the sound of crickets and birds shrilled through the woodland and I was excited to explore the centre of the national park. The hike up the mountain was challenging and appropriate shoes and lots of energy were needed.
Some of our group went on ahead but forgot to take water with them. They joked with the rest of us, saying “bring water for the governor”, asking those behind to bring it for them in the name of the governor. For sure, villagers and lower-ranking officials would bring water for the governor.
The trail was a little overgrown but we followed a stream, with many of our group using newly-made walking sticks cut using machetes.
The surrounding jungle was wonderful and I found myself amazed by the fascinating sights within the park.
The ever-changing scenery from bamboo forest to streams and primary jungle meant that our walk was never boring. We finally reached the Tad Gneem waterfall which is perched on a hillside and feeds the Nam Theun 2 reservoir.
The last section of the climb was quite steep and three of our group decided not to go any further. The leeches sucking on my leg sparked nervous excitement among everyone else.
We finally reached the peak of the hill where some 150 Chinese swamp cypress trees, known in Lao as mai hing sam, were growing.
This is a very rare tree species and is almost extinct, but these specimens remain in the Nakai-Nam Theun National Park.
It took four of us to measure the girth of one of the huge trees (about 6 metres), which are thought to be at least 100 years old.
Deputy Minister of Information, Culture and Tourism, Mr Savankhone Razmountry, who led the group, said “We need to conserve this tree species for successive generations and promote this area as an international tourist destination.”
We spent 2-3 hours walking through thick jungle before getting back to our campsite, which was located on a sandy beach in Nahao village.
When I arrived it was almost sunset, so everyone had their cameras at the ready to capture the bucolic sight of the riverside beach as the sun dipped over the horizon.
A swim in the river was the perfect way to end our day of trekking. I swam against the current in order to get more exercise. The food prepared by the locals was satisfying beyond words. Grilled chicken and laab pa (fish salad), eaten with sticky rice, added even more authenticity to the experience.
In the evening, media personnel, led by Mr Savankhone, joined local people in dancing around a fire on the beach. Dancing around a fire is a Lao custom that is symbolic of the way of life in traditional communities.
The temperature dropped to about 7 degrees Celsius but it created the perfect ambience for listening to the heavenly sounds of the river at night.
The Nakai-Nam Theun National Park has huge potential for tourism development, allowing visitors to see wildlife and observe the traditional practices of local people.
At present it is not officially open to visitors even though numerous unofficial trips having been arranged for vacationcers.
Local authorities plan to arrange night safaris and other activities in the near future in order to attract more people to the region.
Villagers who used to hunt wild animals have been trained as tour guides while others are learning how to cook food, make souvenirs, and arrange homestays for visitors.
To ensure that the park and its biodiversity survive, it is important to make sure that local people are able to earn enough money so that they don’t need to cut down trees or hunt animals to make a living.
Raising awareness among local communities is critical so that they understand the importance of forests and wildlife for the future of their children and the nation.
The ideal solution would be for the national park to be listed as a world heritage site as this would help protect wildlife and tree species and ensure their sustainability.

By Somsack Pongkhao
(Latest Update March 10, 2021)